Italian Escapades
Part 3 of 3: Breaking down Rome

Story and photos by KAREN SCHERER

The train ride out of Tuscany is beautiful – sunflower fields and vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see. It’s a tranquil trip, so enjoy it while it lasts, because as soon as you hit Rome’s Termini Station, the hustle and bustle begins. As they say in the movie, “Gladiator,” Rome is the mob. While the gladiating and crucifixion days have long since gone the way of history, the constant slew of people, and traffic whizzing by, mere inches from the sidewalks tend to invoke feelings of chaos. As such, it is essential to have a map, directions and any other modes of transportation necessary to reach your hotel/hostel sorted out before arriving in the city.

Fortunately for us, our hostel was only a few blocks from Termini Station, and was perfect for a bunch of backpacking adventure-seekers. Alessandro Hostels Rome is a group of three clean, secure hostels; with organized pizza parties and pub crawls, they go beyond boarding and initiate socializing among the lodgers. We talked to several of our fellow bunkmates, and after discovering that two of them had also stayed at the dreadful B&B Rota in Venice, we got some good advice on how to approach sightseeing in Rome.

Roman travel tip #1: Section off the city. Rome is huge and the attractions are numerous. Walking is the recommended means of getting around, but venturing without a plan could mean a lot of doubling back. Make a list of the thing you absolutely want to see and split them up over the number of days you plan to spend in Rome, according to their proximity to one another. Then make a second list of places you want to see if you have extra time each day. This ensures you have plenty of time to see the important things, and won’t waste a minute of the time you have left over.

Roman travel tip #2: Travel back in time. Visit the ancient city at the Roman Forum, Capitoline Hill, Palatine Hill, and the Colosseum; all are located in a compact area, and can easily take up an entire day. The Forum, built over a span of 900 years, was once the center of Rome’s political, commercial and religious activity. Its current state requires imagination to take the rolling hills, scattered stones and partial columns, and rebuild them to their former glory. Take a moment to see the Three Sacred Trees of Rome—olive, grape and fig—replanted by the Italian state in the market square.

Capitoline Hill houses the current municipal authorities. Michelangelo designed the piazza and three surrounding buildings, which hold the Capitoline museums. There is also a replica of the famous bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius in the piazza—the original has been restored from years of damage, and is kept behind glass in Capitoline’s Palazzo Nuovo.

The garden complex of Palatine Hill provides one of the best views of the city. Check out the Palatine Antiquarium to see the artifacts unearthed during excavations of the site, and the nearby Hippodrome (a sunken oval space once surrounded by a colonnade, but now ringed by fragments of fountains, statues and porticoes).

Finally, there is the Colosseum—the icon of ancient Rome. Walk around the marble seating of this massive structure, and examine the maze-like under workings of the partially restored floor. Guided tours are available, as are personal, audio guides—both are rich in historical information, and paint a vivid picture of the arena in all its uses.

Roman travel tip #3: Spend a day at the monuments. The Pantheon is an architectural marvel; its floating, concrete dome is the largest of its kind, and has a huge hole directly in the center, letting in natural light for a truly spiritual experience. It was consecrated as a church in the early 600s, and occasional services are still held there today. I recommend sitting in on one of these services, but only do so if you can sit quietly and soak up the surroundings without disturbing anyone.

Trevi Fountain can prove a bit overwhelming, as its surrounding space is significantly smaller than the crowds it attracts. Protruding out of the back of Palazzo Poli, this marble fountain is an extravagant piece of art. It is said that travelers who toss a coin into the fountain are guaranteed a swift return to Rome, and travelers who toss two coins in will fall in love in Rome. Keep the coinage to a minimum though—they damage the marble.

The Spanish Steps are an international accomplishment. Designed by an Italian and funded by the French, they were named for the Spanish Embassy to the Vatican City (which is still located in the piazza), and lead up to the French church, Trinita dei Monti. They’re also very interesting architecturally, and a common gathering place among tourists and locals alike. Watch out ladies, the Italian men who hang out here tend to get a little over-friendly.

Roman travel tip #4: Get ready for church. There is no more extravagant show of wealth than the Vatican City. Saint Peter’s Basilica alone is worth more than my life, and the lives of everyone I know combined. Before entering the building, wander around Bernini’s colonnade, which leads from the pigeon-laden Piazza San Pietro to the Basilica, atop the quadruple rows of columns sit 140 statues. Once inside, the interior is breathtaking and the sheer size of the space, awe-inspiring. You absolutely must see Michelangelo’s “Pietá,” and Bernini’s bronze baldaccino, spiraling upward from the marble altar. But remember, this is a church, and no matter how hot it is outside, dress appropriately—this means knees and shoulders should be covered.

The Vatican Museums should be next, as they will lead you through a veritable maze of artifacts, art and antiques, including the Apollo Belvedere, and Raphael’s masterpiece, “School of Athens.” At the end of the maze is the jewel of the journey, the Sistine Chapel, named for its founder, Pope Sixtus IV. It is a place that literally has to be experienced to be fully appreciated, and is best experienced by (a) meandering through to get a closer look at each individual scene, and (b) sitting down to absorb 360° of incredible artwork, from “The Creation of Adam” on the ceiling (replicated on many a postcard) to the lesser known “Last Judgment” on the altar wall. Trying to do this standing up might strain your neck.

Down the River Tiber from the Vatican is the Castel Sant’Angelo, built as a mausoleum by the Emperor Hadrian. It was later converted to a papal fortress and, eventually, the museum that it is today. The odd, but gigantic circular structure is hard to miss on the riverfront, and offers the best view of Rome and the Vatican.

Roman travel tip #5: Don’t forget the little things. Any time left over from seeing the big tourist attractions should be spent wandering through the Capuchin Crypt, or any of the city’s art-adorned churches; San Luigi del Francesi, home to three of Caravaggio’s most famous works, and Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, Rome’s only Gothic church, are just a couple of options. It’s also important to delve into the finer things the city has to offer; take a minute to enjoy fine Italian cuisine, a cup of coffee at a sidewalk café, or, my personal favorite, a rainbow of gelato flavors.

Italy has many personalities, all of which should be experienced, and much of which I know I missed. For those who are wondering, we did actually achieve our goal in Rome to see the Sistine Chapel. The girls and I may have skipped the gondola ride in Venice, and somehow missed the David in Florence, but we ended our trip with a 1 and 2 record; though, admittedly, we arrived at the Vatican Museums about 15 minutes before they closed the entrance, narrowly avoiding a tragic 0 and 3. When all was said and done, I left Italy with a passion for good food, a desire to be more artistic, a personal goal to someday return, and an insatiable urge to watch “Gladiator.”