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Mo's, Milwaukee |
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Written by and photos by JEFF CEBULSKI
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Tuesday, 03 May 2005 |
The general manager of Milwaukee’s "Place for Steaks," Mo’s, likes to compare his restaurant to the reinvigorated hometown Milwaukee Bucks NBA franchise: no mega stars, but a consortium of hard-workers who aim to win.
To a person, both the staff and clientele of this Plankinton Avenue establishment agree that what makes this up-scale eatery a success is its blue-collar attitude in a city that gravitates toward hard work and service.
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| Mo's - A Place for Steaks |
720 N. Plankinton Avenue
Milwaukee, Wis.
(414) 272-0720
www.mosaplaceforsteaks.com
Hours:
Mondays through Saturdays, 5 to 11p.m.
Closed Sundays
Bar open nightly until 1 a.m.
Valet parking available.
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"Our guests like to see how hard the staff works," said Brian Ward, who emphasized the words "family," "atmosphere," and "relationships" in an interview held in the downstairs lounge, next to a piano that is played every night to entertain a consistent flow of patrons used to the warm attention of Mo’s workers and the informality that accompanies a top-drawer fare that rivals any of the many quality restaurants of Beertown.
Indeed, Mo’s has been rated as a "Top 10" restaurant by the Wine Spectator and was a Primetime Top 10 choice for 2003.
Ward explained that his place attracts a goodly amount of travelers who seek an informal, big city experience: a looser place to conduct business and to make contacts while eating food that connoisseurs crave. ("It’s not always a quiet place.") The black-and-brown shaded interior emphasizes a wood décor that communicates a homey vibe, while the sounds of Sinatra supply the background to anyone who likes to talk while they eat.
Mo’s has two main eating areas – downstairs smoking and upstairs non-smoking – that seat around 110 total and also features two banquet rooms that seat 65 and 33.
While one floor worker said "Rat Pack" when asked to describe the atmosphere, Ward was careful to emphasize that both genders find Mo’s a pleasurable venue. Indeed, upon observation, one could easily see a mix of men and women – coupled, grouped, or single – within the confines of the well-stocked bar and neatly arranged tables on the first floor. In fact, said Ward, it is the single eater who receives the most grandiose attention.
"We want to be like a private club – we like to get to know the guests – to create a ‘family bond," he said. "Fifty percent of the clientele we know by name. Out-of-towners return."
Of course, all those good vibrations would be wasted on just a few if the food did not meet the demanding standards of the discerning gourmet. And, if the taste of a freshly grilled filet mignon had any significance, Mo’s certainly lives up to its name. This reviewer is not prone to having his steak medium rare and with any sauce, but the hunk of outstanding meat he inhaled on this occasion was not only as tender as steak gets and not only prepared perfectly, but it was also accompanied by a wonderfully balanced béarnaise sauce that made every bite worth its price ($29).
Yet, that was not the steak Ward heralded. Mo’s signature grill is as Midwestern as one could get—a 24 oz. Bone In Ribeye ($40) that rises way above typical supper club fare in its delicate but hearty balance of juicy delictability and prime meat presence.
Served with either soup or salad and fresh bread, these American steak feasts fulfill the appetite and provide the kind of no-nonsense ambiance Mo’s takes pride in.
The rest of Mo’s menu is, on the surface, as simply elegant as its décor. Besides the basic steak selection that includes New York Sirloin ($30 and $37) and London Broil (with a red wine sauce, $21), the list also offers Baby Back Ribs ($24), Pork Chops and a 16 oz. Pork Porterhouse ($27); Ahi Tuna, Salmon Filet, and "The Leto Swordfish Steak" ($27); two kinds of Veal Chop ($35-$39); and a huge Surf & Turf consisting of the Ribeye and a 12 oz. Australian Lobster Tail ($86).
The "homemade" ambiance of the menu is completed by a middle-class side menu that includes "Col. Lombardo’s Cream Corn"; "The Baumann," a doublebaked potato named after its creator, Milwaukee-bred head chef Bill Baumann; potatoes, most any way one would like; asparagus, spinach, sautéed mushrooms, and broccoli; and those classic bar food favorites, onion rings and shoestring potatoes.
Mo’s is proud of its wine selection that it has carefully nurtured throughout its four-and-a-half year history. The business is serious enough about it that the proprietor opened a wine and deli shop across the street next to its third establishment, an Irish pub that opened last fall.
For dessert? A basic collection that exudes tradition and care, featuring Mo’s Signature Dessert, a Chocolate Bread Pudding ($5) that Ward claims is surprisingly and delectably "light" and a "rich" Chocolate Truffle Cake ($7).
As a whole package, Mo’s strives to excel at what Ward calls "The Unity of the Three": the combination of atmosphere, food, and service. "We try to notice the things other people don’t."
Indeed, while munching on that quality steak in the close-cropped but eminently comfortable lounge, I was pleasantly accosted by one of Mo’s long-time waitresses, who made sure I was paid attention to. In an affable conversation, I learned that most of Mo’s workers stick around due to the sense of family and teamwork the business emphasizes.
The restaurant opens its doors Monday through Saturday at 5 p.m. and closes at 11 p.m. except for Saturday at midnight. But Ward was careful to admit that the lounge bar usually stays open until bar closing time, which is 2 a.m. (2:30 on Sunday morning). More than likely, the late versions of Sports Center will be showing on the bar’s two television screens.
The earliest time to call for reservations – and if the flow of customers on a Thursday evening is any indication, do call – is 11 a.m.
One sharply dressed patron who hails from Madison told me that he "doesn’t usually eat steak," but that Mo’s is the only place he will eat it. High praise, indeed, for this centrally located restaurant team that craves the loyalty of its customers as strongly as it demonstrates its loyalty to them.Powered by AkoComment 2.0! |
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