Fortunately for Milwaukee, a true bistro exists, and its prime location makes it one of the truly glorious experiences.The Lake Park Bistro, owned and operated by Milwaukee’s first family of cuisine, the Bartolotta brothers, presents authentic French fare in a pleasant, open atmosphere near the shore of Lake Michigan as the end of Newberry Boulevard leads into Lake Park.
Nearly 10 years ago, the Bartolattas took a deteriorating old venue, the Park Pavilion, and performed an early version of Extreme Makeover on the pavilion’s top floor, supplanting the stodgy interior with glass, brass, and authentic European art work that gave the place a warm, open-aired ambiance suitable for both fine dining and genial fellowship.
Executive Chef Adam Siegel, whose career has carried him from Chicago to San Francisco to Italy to Washington D.C. and now to Milwaukee, specializes in "modern French cuisine" and has placed his culinary fingerprints on a menu that was begun by locally-famous chef Mark Weber. Besides classic French dishes including a wonderful baked onion soup (Soupe À L’oignon, $5.95 lunch, $6.50 dinner) and an authentic Salade Lyonnaise (with poached egg and bacon, $7.95 lunch), Siegel has created newfangled treats such as the Escalope De Foie Gras Poelee Aux Pommes Et Compote D’Abricots, pan-seared duck liver "foie gras" with sautéed apples and apricot preserves, an appetizer actually worth its $17.50 cost; the Tranche De Saumon Au Beurre De Syrah, sautéed Atlantic salmon with asparagus and creamy whipped potatoes in a rich red wine-butter sauce, a treat at $19.95; and Bar De Ligne Roti À La Mediterraneen, an oven roasted Mediterranean style sea bass in a white wine broth with a medley of vegetables and Nicoise olives ($26.50).
A lot of people think the Bistro’s best work is done at lunch. Besides the Lyonnaise salad and onion soup, Siegel’s crew prepares a terrific Crab bisque "a L’armacnac" ($5.95); a sandwich list including a marinated and grilled chicken with rustic bread, topped with black olive tapenade and a Niçoise style salad ($11.95); and a Eurofeast of entrees including steamed mussels in a creamy white wine broth with garlic and shallots for $11.95, herb-and-goat-cheese-filled ravioli with fresh tomato sauce, herb salad and shaved parmesan for $12.50, and sautéed rainbow trout, field mushrooms and potatoes with lemon-thyme butter sauce for $15.95.
From personal experience, the service is warm, personable, and timely, reflecting the Barlolotta style of diner management, which includes the Guest Loyalty Program in which regulars earn a point for every dollar spent, leading to a $25 coupon after $250 worth of meals are purchased. The company also likes to send gift coupons to its patrons for birthdays and anniversaries.
The restaurant, with its more intimate North Room and spacey Pavilion, can handle most any diner grouping. One should go to the Bistro just to hang out at the square, cherry-colored bar located in front of the kitchen.
The bistro serves one of Milwaukee’s finest Sunday brunches (entrees range from $17.95 to $25.50) from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Photos couresy of Lake Park Bistro
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